Today on the Emery Dress Sewalongwe are going to close up the back of our Emery Dress with the help of an invisible zipper, and sew in the bodice lining! A big post with a lot of information and photos, so here we go! I know many sewers panic when it comes to installing zippers, and I totally get it.
When you sew a regular zipper, all the stitching that is on the outside of the garment must be done perfectly, or it just looks terrible. But the great thing about sewing an invisible zipper is that all of the stitching is on the inside of the garment!
No exposed stitching at all! So as long as you follow these handy tips, you should have a picture-perfect zipper every time! I like to interface the Frågor och Svar where the zipper is to strengthen it. It also helps to keep the fabric from rippling.
If you'd like to try this, simply cut 1" strips the length of your zipper. Be sure to use lightweight woven fusible interfacing. Repeat so you have two 1" strips, one for each side of your zipper seam. Line up the interfacing on the seam so the sides are together and it is flush at the top of the seam.
Press in place with a hot iron. After interfacing, finish the edges of the fabric on the seam where the zipper will be going. You won't be able to do this afterwards, so take a moment to do it now. After sewing, press the fabric flat so it is flat and ready for the zipper!
The best way to install an invisible zipper perfectly is with an invisible zipper foot. This foot has two channels that the zipper teeth sit into. This ensures your stitches are close, but not too close, to the teeth. When it comes out of the package, the teeth are curled towards the tape.
Open your zipper as pictured below, so the pull is down at the bottom. Carefully take your iron and press the teeth away from the zipper tape. But be careful not to over press it! The key is to get the teeth of the zipper standing straight up so the tape and teeth form a degree angle.
Do not press the teeth flat! In the image below, the teeth closest to us are perfectly pressed at a degree angle.